A rather large black bear lunging after a salmon on the Quinsam River. Taken with Sony A9II and 200-600mm at 448mm, f/6.3, 1/640s,ISO 12800
As fall approaches we wait for the first rains to help the water flow in the rivers along the coast of Vancouver Island. This increase in water flow is one of the signals for the Pacific Salmon to start their spawn migration upstream to the locations they originally hatched. This is not only an important time for the salmon but also for the people that live (and have lived here for well before it was ever referred to as Vancouver Island) here and also for many species of wildlife that need the salmon for their own survival. Here on the Island, the main species I like to photograph that benefit from this abundance are the Black bears and the eagles. Of course, there are many others that directly or indirectly benefit from the salmon run.
This is then a time for nature photographers to also get out with those long lenses to try to capture some of the action. For me this means getting out daily and walking along the river trails, quietly waiting for some interesting action to happen. At first, I focus on capturing pretty pictures of bears, eagles, herons, mink and other animals. Once I have those in my back pocket, I start looking for action shots and the interactions that really make a picture tell an interesting story. Sometimes it is best to find a good location and wait for the action to come to you, other times I have to go find the action, either way if you aren't out there, you're not going to get the shot.
Brownish Black bear taken near dusk. Taken with Sony A7RV with Sigma 500mm f5/6 at 1/2000s, f/5.6, ISO 12800. I turned a corner and saw this bear fishing, this was one of the first few shots I got. Luckily my camera settings were good for getting a quick and sharp image even if we could likely have reduced the shutter speed considerably and still gotten a sharp image once we had time to consider the light more.
The best time to see bears is near dark, as most black bears spend their day sleeping in a tree and only start fishing about an hour before the sunset. While there's a higher chance of finding bears at the river's edge at this time, the small window when there's enough light to get the shot at anything less than ISO 12800 means the likelihood of getting an exciting action shot it limited. Not all bears sleep during the day, and a few will try their luck during the day. They may be nervous of the bigger bears the fish in the evening, or much like me, they just can't sleep when they are hungry. Either way, this provides opportunities to capture shots in better light. Higher shutter speeds and lower ISOs means a better chance at a shot that I'll be able to print and not just use for a quick social media post. As always, there's a balance - sometimes the harsh midday sun combined with the deep shadows in the woods are challenging to capture all in one image. Isn't that what it's all about? Trying to get the right shot, in the right light to tell an interesting story. I do have to say that with the latest camera image sensors and the improvements in noise reduction techniques, we can get much better results at high ISOs than ever before.
More light makes a significant difference in the details of the shot. In this case I was lucky to find this bear in the afternoon but the shadows could be a challenge if it turned the wrong way.
What Lens Should I Use?
When it comes to gear, I've found a combination of lenses and settings that best work for the variable light conditions. The best lenses I've found would be somewhere between 100-400 maximum, and if you can afford it, a large aperture of about f/2 to f/2.8. That's out of reach for most of us, but a 70-200 f/2.8, 70-300, or 100-400 would likely do the trick in most cases. While the 70-200 may be a little short in some cases, the extra light gathering capabilities of the f/2.8 will allow you to continue to shoot at higher shutter speeds and lower ISOs longer into the evening. The 70-300 and 100-400 lenses that are common for each of the brands have a great range for capturing the bears up close and still being able to get the environmental shots at the wider end, but you'll find that you're often shooting at double the ISO of a f/2.8 lens which can quickly make the shots noisy. If you can afford it, there are a couple of very good lenses that can be found. The best in my opinion would be the 100-300 f/2.8 for Canon and the 120-300 f/2.8 for Nikon (Sigma used to have a 120-300 f/2.8 that I would love to see updated for mirrorless but that is another story). These two lenses have both the large aperture and the versatility of range that are excellent for close conditions.
Momma black bear bringing a huge salmon over to an expectant cub. These are the types of shots that tell a more interesting story than just a pretty portrait. These moments I will remember for a long time thanks to these pictures.
My Photo Techniques to Capture the Best Bear Photos
Back to technique for capturing bears. Get down low, sitting is a good position for bears. There are 2 reasons for this. The first has to do with being at eye level. I think this is a well-known concept, but it really is a good way to make sure you aren't always seeing bears with their eyes looking down. It also changes the background behind the bear so that you often get foliage instead of just water. The second reason is more for the bears and that has to do with the fact that animals notice a person standing as much more of a threat or worry than if you were to have a smaller, lower profile. This definitely applies to other animals and birds. While a hide would be your best option, I've found that animals ignore you more when sitting (or lying down). Much of this also has to do with how much movement there is and keeping fairly still without a lot of large gestures is also a good idea This doesn't mean that the bears don't know you're there. They likely knew about you well before you even saw them (depending on the wind and noise). It has more to do with an animal feeling like it can continue with what it's doing without constantly looking towards you. There are a few ways to tell if the bear is not comfortable; one is by constantly looking towards you, usually followed with a yawn. When I see this behaviour, I back away and find a better place or even back off entirely and let them continue on their way. Even with my more than 25-years of experience with black bears, I don't consider myself an expert and there are better forums out there that delve into this topic. Having said that, bears have their own unique personalities, and even general tendencies in one area may not be the same for other bears in other conditions. The bears around Campbell River are more used to fishing alongside people, but by no means does that make them tame.
When a black bear is not concerned about us photographers it may even sit and eat lunch right in front of you.
In my experience shooting wildlife, I have a few basic camera settings that may be helpful to others. First, my in-camera set up as a starting point (on the M1 memory on camera). I set the camera to this position before I head out as it usually will get me a first shot or two that's going to be in focus, sharp (even if moving quickly) but may be noisy depending on the light. I set it up with auto ISO (with a maximum of 12800), 1/2000 sec shutter speed, lens set with it's most open aperture, autofocus set to animal subject tracking and wide (all focus points). This setup is great if you happen along a situation where action is happening in front of you and you need to get a shot before you miss the moment. This has allowed me to capture fleeting moments that I may have missed otherwise. In these cases I may not get a perfect shot as I haven't had any time to think about composition, lighting or optimal settings, but I most often get a shot that I can use and sometimes these quick shots are the only opportunities I get with that subject.
Shadow and light are critical components of a composition and help to give a feel for the actual conditions on the river.
If you have more time with the subject, this is when you start to adjust for the "better" shot. First I try to get a few shots at lower ISOs and with better consideration for the composition. If you have more time or can set up prior to the animal coming to you, then there are more choices. As I'm walking, I am always thinking about where the sun is with respect to the subject but you can't always put yourself in the best location right away. When time does permit, the light and the environment around the subject become the next thoughts. Most times shooting with the light behind you or to the side of the subject is better than having the sun in line with the subject (except in very specific situations where you might want a silhouette or faded look). Many animals will be ok with you moving sideways to them in a slow manner but do keep an eye if their mannerisms change as you move. The background behind the subject is the next consideration. A busy background that is relatively close to the animal compared to the distance you're from the subject will often make the subject blend in. A background that's simple will be easier to manage and bring out the subject in certain cases, but also consider if the surrounding environment is part of the story. No one method is correct, so try different options and take multiple shots.
It was really exciting to watch this sow come down to the river with her 2 cubs. The interaction in this case lasted a long time so I was able to get a number of interesting shots of all three and each individual as well as a number of action shots. This doesn’t happen often but when it does I can go through most of the ideas I have been talking about here. From the initial quick grabs to the low noise shots and then get the shots with different environmental conditions and different angles.
If you're lucky, you might even have a number of shots. The initial quick shot of the subject (sometimes some unique action that you happened to witness), some cleaner shots of the subject, and maybe some ongoing action with camera setting that will ensure better results. More time with the subject means that you may have a chance to make different choices around the background and the light, and if all goes well, possibly a shot or two to add to your portfolio.
Some other things to think about when out with black bears.
Keep the noise to a minimum mostly for the bears but also for others who may be trying to enjoy the moment.
Do not make fast movements if possible. This will inevitably distract the bear from what it's doing.
Try not to have anything near you that smells. Cologne/perfume and smoking are the worst as bears can smell that from a significant distance and may avoid you entirely.
Try not to crowd the animal. I know it is difficult as often I will see a group of 10 or more people trying to get close enough for a shot, but if possible, it is best with 1 or 2 people at most at a distance that you will need a fairly long telephoto lens to allow for the best observations. This will also ensure the bear has a higher likelihood of going about it's business of catching fish.
If a bear is looking uncomfortable with your presence back away (slowly) if you can until it goes back to more normal activity. You may just have to leave that bear alone. Not only will you not get good shots if the bear is uncomfortable, but the bear may miss an essential meal if it is concentrating on you instead of fishing.
Sometimes you don’t have to work hard to have a picture tell a story
Being able to watch these bears in this area is a fantastic way to get a better understanding of nature. My intention is to encourage others to do the same in a respectful way that minimizes direct interaction with the bears and where people remain at a safe distance. Even though I always carry bear spray, I hope I never have to use it, particularly as a response to my own interactions with a bear. Bear interactions in this area of Vancouver Island are inevitable if you walk regularly in nature areas. I only hope that with better understanding, and through observation, we can live with them and not feel like we need to remove them from their own territory due to our fears and ignorance.
Action shots at high ISO but a fast enough shutter speed to get a reasonably sharp image. New noise reduction algorithms definitely help to reduce the colour noise in these shots.